Each Culinary Artist Must Learn At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Eatery Secures 4th on Roll of London’s Top Restaurants.

When assembling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might expect well-known high-end names. However, tucked near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The honour has left the owners completely astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” states the family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their humble place securing such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary honour.

Lisa Jordan
Lisa Jordan

A certified mindfulness coach and writer passionate about helping others find peace through meditation and holistic wellness practices.